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VINTAGE CLOTHING SIZE GUIDE FOR MODERN PINUP GIRLS.
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Vintage clothing sizing is more different than you might think from modern sizing. The standards have changed allot over the years so if you are buying vintage clothing, dressmaking patterns or authentic modern reproductions, you will need to know how to work out the right size for you before you lay out any cash.
Over the years standard clothing sizing has changed dramatically. I am a Brit so my knowledge is mostly of the British sizing issues.standard clothing sizing as we know it in the UK today was brought in in the 1960s, before which if a dress was size 34 for example then that meant a 34 inch bust and a 36 inch hip.Women were slimmer in the 1950s,or earlier, than they are today. And if you have ever seen a wartime daily food ration you would have a good idea as to why!. People ate less and did more. Back then there really was no such thing as plus-sizing in the fashion industry. For women who were above average size there was basically just tent like garments, it was for this reason that custom made clothing was so popular. Happily things are better now, but if you are in the plus size area then you sadly might find vintage clothes hard to find with a good fit. Which I know is the opposite to what most people these days think is true, "surely vintage clothes are cut for real women with curves?" well yes and no, the curves' proportions to eachother are whats important.
The sizes were cut differently back then, so a 1950s size 12 is not the same as a modern UK size 12..it is actually closer to a size 8!! I am a UK size 8 to 10 (US size 6 to 8) and generally wear a 1940s/50s vintage size 14. One of the reasons for this is that women tended to wear girdles and waist cinchers every day, so do take that in to consideration if you will be wearing vintage style underwear. Measure yourself in the lingerie you will be wearing under the chosen outfit.
 
People always say, in defence of plus sizing, "Marilyn Monroe was a size 16" unfortunately while that was true in the 50s it would not be today. I don't know if its that standard dress sizing has changed because womens bodies have changed or if it is really some kind of ploy to make us all feel thinner so we will be good little consumers, but whatever the reason sizing is different now. By standard UK sizing, the measurements I have available for our lady Marilyn would put her chest at a size 10 (USA size 6 ), waist at UK size 6 (USA size 4!) and hips at UK size 8 to 10 (USA size size 6 to 8). So you can see that not only would she be considered a smaller size today, probably wearing a size 10 or smaller, but the hourglass proportions of her body would not fit into just one of the modern standard sizes properly. One of her dresses was recently measured by a fashion editor and she found the waist to be a tiny 22"!!, assuming that the dress was made to fit over a waist cincher that means her waist could still not have been more than 24" maximum. It is this reason that many women today, myself included, get into vintage clothing, because they have an hourglass figure and modern clothing does not flatter. An hourglass figure is defined by a waist measurement of 10 inches or more smaller than the hips.
Ok so here is a comparison guide for you, remember that all so called 'standard sizing' varies between manufacturers, especially for the larger sizes, so this is an approximate average guide. And just to clarify when I say 'vintage sizing' I am referring to the 40s and 50s primarily.
UK - USA - VINTAGE *6----4-----10 *8----6-----12 *10---8-----14 *12---10----16 *14---12----18 *16---14----20
You can see that there is a big difference here and the sizes don't actually line up like that, the waist measurements for the vintage sizing are on average an inch smaller than the modern closest equivalent. it might be unpleasant for a USA size 14 to be looking at the vintage size 20 rack, but remember its just a number not a judgement, remember Marilyn.
When going in to a vintage clothing or thrift store there probably wont be dress sizes on the clothes, so the best thing to do is take a measuring tape with you. Here is how you measure a prospective new frock: The most important measurement to get right, and also the hardest to, is the bust. It is not so easy to make alterations to the bust on many dresses. If you need alterations the best scenario is something with princess seams.
you must be aware of your measurements as your dress size will be of next to no use when vintage clothes shopping. The important measurements are -bust, under-bust, waist and hips.. (see diagram above) you should also really know the secondary measurements of torso, arm and leg length. When you measure yourself it is best to get someone to help you.
when looking at a potential purchase mentally allow around 2 inches for comfort.To measure an item of vintage clothing lay it flat and using a quality measuring tape measure all important areas, for a dress for example you should measure the bustline, waistline, shoulder to shoulder across the back, hips (about 8 inches or so below the waist) and the often forgotten sleeve opening circumference.
Buying vintage clothes is so much more fun than normal shopping, its the closest I can come to understanding hunting! There is such satisfaction when you find something fabulous and unique.

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