Seamed stockings are integral to the pinup girls' look. What is the most often heard phrase in the powder room of any rockabilly bar or backstage at a burlesque show? I'll bet its: "Are my seams straight?". I am prepared to spend more on my stockings than anything else in my wardrobe by comparison. I cannot imagine life without them, the feeling of those seams against the back of my knee is as much comfort as I need in this world.
Now while I don't expect everyone to have quite the stocking fetish I do, I do know you love them too. So here is a history so you know your stuff, and my recomended sellers so you get the best!
Scroll down to the bottom of the page for some sexy seamed stocking videos too!
It was in 1927 that Dr. Wallace Carothers began to research new polymers and discovered polyamide. By 1939 the Du Pont company was using it to make stockings and calling it nylon. Nylon stockings changed women's legs forever!..no more of the sagging at the knees you get with silk stockings and a sheerness that enhanced the look of legs more than silk too. The good doctor is one of the most under-rated figures in fashion history..the father of a million fetishists!
In the 1940s ofcourse rationing meant that stockings were very hard to get hold of, especially for women in the UK. Silks and high quality rayon were used to
make parachutes. So if they wanted to stay fashionable the girls either had to ..umm..befriend an American GI, join the WRNS (Women's Royal Naval Service) who were still issuing seamed stockings as a cunning recruitment ploy..perhaps..., make do with cheap rayon Or the fourth option was to stain your legs with gravy browning or strong tea and have a good friend with a steady hand draw a line up the back of your leg. Seems allot of effort to go to for some simple underwear, but there is just something special about seamed stockings. In the 1950s non-seamed stockings first came out but the fit was so bad that they never took off. It was not until the 60s (the decade that killed style) that they became the norm.
These days real seamed stockings, or "fully fashioned" are not so easy to get hold of. The seam is more than just decorative, it does actually hold them together, hence why they are called fully fashioned. A pair of fully fashioned seamed stockings is constructed in multiple parts literally sewn together on special reading machines. They are sewn together flat then shaped to fit the leg, which leaves picot marks either side of the seam on the calf where the nylon stitches come in towards the ankle. It is the reading machine that creates the distinctive 'finishing loop' at the top of the seam.
There are several different styles of heel available on seamed stockings. The most common and popular are the pointed (also called the french, or Paris heel which first came from Christian Dior) and the Cuban, which is rectangular at the top, and was more common in the 1940s. Another far rarer style is the Havana. Lower on the ankle and wider than the Cuban, it also has cutaways in the reinforced foot so it can be worn with minimal shoes, like cute little kitten heels.
These and other more fancy decorative heel shapes were rare in the 40s and 50s and still are today, though you will find them all available from
What Katie Did
, who have their fully fashioned seamed stockings made in the only two factories in the UK who still use original stocking reading machines. The machines are big, slow and temperamental so they can not produce the kind of quantites of modern stockings, this is reflected in the price, but you are getting what you pay for. My personal favorites are french heel, full contrast (nude with a black seam) No one wears silk stockings anymore, they might be authentic but they are a pain in the backside. The other great vintage stockings maker is Secrets In Lace their range might not be quite as die hard authentic as WKD but they do have a fantastic range of gorgeous fully fashioned nylon stockings in a larger range of colourways (including the exclusive Dita Von Teese range).
You probably don't want to wear fully fashioned stockings every day unless you actually are Dita Von Teese or have your own reading machine! Thankfully this is the age of endless options so you can get authentic looking seamed stockings and even holdups (yes I know holdups are for armatures, whatever, sometimes they are easier) in a range of colours and colour combinations, for every day prices from both of the above boutiques. Though be wary of the cheapest ones in highstreet stores and umm ..'speciality adult retailers' as the "seam" is often printed on rather than stitched and frankly looks rubbish. They are only just good enough for a Halloween party and nothing else. One cheaper option I rate is Leg Avenue their cuban heel contrast stockings are really nice and surprisingly durable. They also have a great selection of more fun designs great for burlesque costumes.
Seamed stockings are available not just in nylons, silks and rayons though. We must not forget the classic showgirl fishnets and tulle. Tulle seamed stockings are gorgeous, they look like sheer stockings from a distance because the mesh is so fine, but as you get closer you see it is a superfine fishnet. It is smooth to the touch and virtually impossible to ladder so they last a long time, hence why they are the showgirl's choice.
Choosing Stockings If you want the most authentic 1940s fashion look then go for the thicker denier nylons or rayon in a shade of brown. Brown seamed stockings might not be so fashionable today but if you do want authentic vintage glamour they were the most common in the 40s. To date I have only ever seen these from What Katie Did (see the shopping suggestions at the side of the page) Most retro loving pinup girls these days though don't seek to turn themselves into a walking museum piece, more just to evoke a feeling of a style gone by. The iconic 'retro glamour' look of today is black seamed stockings held up by girdles and finished with ultra high stiletto heels, similar to the infamous Irving Klaw Bettie Page photo shoots.
I know they are not exactly seamed but I couldn't resist including these adoreable snake stockings from for play ...They also have some good inexpensive full contrast seamed stockings that are good for everyday wear.
A note on girdles and suspender / garter belts...only buy the ones with the metal clips NOT the plastic ones, they hold better and last longer. Also ideally you want three clips on each side rather than just two (any more than that is just decorative...looks really good though!)
Care of your stockings is going to be important to you if you are wearing the real thing, so make sure you have one of those net laundry bags to keep them safe when in the machine (on a low temp delicate wash obviously) And if you really want to go all out you can get a pair of lint-free cotton gloves. These are actually great if you have very long nails like I do, I know it sounds a bit OTT but it does prevent snags and makes them easier to handle so you are more likely to get your back seam straight first time... How to keep that seam straight all day? 3 things I know of: Wear the right size Use a deep suspender belt or girdle with at least 6 clips And third, it might sound strange but it can help, mist your stockings with hairspray once you put them on. It prevents snagging as well.
I found this fabulous video on youtube. Its from What Katie Did (I know I sound obsessed with them, and perhaps I am but this really is just a coincidence) It features pinup diva Slinky Sparkles removing and putting on her black back seamed stockings, wearing gorgeous lacy 1950s vintage styled lingerie. I love the way the tattoos on her thighs show through the tops of her stockings.
Ok just to be fair I found this fabulously creepy and shamelessley fetish pitched video from Secrets In Lace It shows of their gorgeous stockings very well, they really are lovely kittens...check it out
*I am proud to be an affiliate. Products for which I receive commission are very carefully selected. Sponsors have no influence on the writing of these pages. Thankyou for using these links, your support keeps this site free.Click for more info.
Stocking shopping!
My favorite stockings and related stuff hand picked for you to love...
It was in 1927 that Dr. Wallace Carothers began to research new polymers and discovered polyamide. By 1939 the Du Pont company was using it to make stockings and calling it nylon. Nylon stockings changed women's legs forever!..no more of the sagging at the knees you get with silk stockings and a sheerness that enhanced the look of legs more than silk too. The good doctor is one of the most under-rated figures in fashion history..the father of a million fetishists!
Choosing Stockings
