Better brow shaping

Better eyebrow shaping tips

Brow shaping is one of the scariest but most important elements of your beauty regime. The right eyebrow shape can act almost like a face lift...it can change the expressive character of your eyes and even the 'shape' of your face! So getting it right should be high on your to-do list.
Don't be intimidated though, it's actually really easy when you follow just a few rules...plus I've collected afew of the best tips out there just for you.

This brow shaping guide is part of the pinups eye makeup section which includes tips tricks and tutorials on everything from application of individual eyelashes to getting the perfect smokey eye look and more. Scroll down to find out more.

Lets get started brow shaping...

First you need to have the right tools..."aren't all tweezers the same lilly?" ... no they are not kittens, and spending just a little bit more will pay you back in spades. The brand I favour myself is Tweezerman. Tweezerman tweezers are not only high quality and long lasting but also come in a huge variety of colours and designs to match your style (mine are hot pink and were a gift from my wonderful Husband)

How about these leopard print ones? More colours available from Ricky's NYC just click on the picture.

Get yourself into a well lit area with a magnifying mirror if you need one and take a good look at your brows...

Use something long and thin like a slim eyeshadow brush to measure your brows. Do this by holding the brush handle against the edge of your nose, going straight up to your forehead.This first measurement is to set the ideal start point for your brows. All hairs outside of this marker line (those inbetween the brows) should be removed but no more, if you go too far it will look really odd.
The second measurement is for the end point of the brows. With the brush handle still against the end of your nose, turn one end toward the outer edge of your eye until the stick lines up diagonally with the end of your eye and the tip of your nose. Your brow should ideally end at the natural end of that diagonal line just before the temple (most women's eyebrows end a fraction of an inch short of perfection, so we will cover faking it soon)

The final reference point you need is the high point of your arch. Whether you aim for a soft curve or a diva arch the highest point is always in the same place. You measure this by looking right ahead into your mirror, your high point should should line up with the outer edge of your iris.

Try drawing in the brow shape you are aiming for, based on your measurements, with a pencil. This is especially useful for blondes, so you can see where you are working.

Don't go too fast. Look at the hairs you are pulling, especially at the thinnest part of the eyebrow. Look at where the root is and where the hair ends. This will avoid the problem of pulling out hairs you shouldn't have and ending up with gaps in the line.

When pulling the hairs take hold of them about half way down the shaft and, gripping tightly, pull away in the direction of the hair growth. Do not pull upwards or outwards away from your face as this can cause damage to the hair follicle. It will also be less painful.

Start with the hairs above your nose. The brow should start directly above the inner corner of your eye.Take afew hairs from each side in turn to get a balanced look, and carry on to the end. Do not remove the last hairs as you want your eyebrows to extend as far as possible.

You may have heard that you should never pluck hairs from above your eyebrows. This is actually not strictly true. Although for most people there is nothing to be gained from plucking above the eyebrow, and if you take too much it will look ridiculous, If you have heavy brows you can make them and your forehead look less severe by plucking a few hairs from the top. Just don't get carried away, and leave well alone if you don't need to do it.

Clean the tweezed area with tea tree oil or witch hazel afterwards to prevent infection.

Maintenance should be done once or twice a week.
If you tweeze in the mornings, do it before your shower so that any redness or swelling will have gone down before you put on your makeup.

A note on colouring:
You can add colour and definition to your eyebrows with either pencil or powder. If you have read other makeup pages on this site you will know that I favour powder, but that is not to say that using pencil is always a bad idea.First, I always say the colour choice should be close to your natural or slightly lighter, this is because if you go darker than your natural (or than your hair colour) you will look like you are frowning all the time. Here's how to get both pencil and powder right first time...

Pencil:
Most eyebrow pencils are going to give you a look that is too harsh and too obvious. When picking a pencil check it's texture on the back of your hand. The right choice is a soft one that glides over the skin easily. The colour should be as close as possible to your natural brows, or slightly lighter.
To use a pencil just to enhance your brows you are going to simply apply the colour to the hairs not to the skin.
If you are filling in sparse brows or correcting shape then you are drawing fine feathery lines onto the skin to look like hairs rather than a single line, followed by a sweep of the eyebrow brush.
The exception to this obviously is if you are trying to achieve an authentic 1930s makeup look.

Powder:
The powder is any shade of eyeshadow that closely matches or is slightly lighter than your natural brows. Any type will do but a non sparkle pressed powder is best. The important part is the tool you use to apply it. You need a small, angled, hard bristled brush. These are available from good makeup suppliers and in art supply stores, but are not usually included in basic brush sets.
Dip it in the powder and tap off any excess. Start at the thickest part of the brow and work outwards. Again you want to use feathery strokes and keep most of the colour on the hairs rather than the skin (though for a 1940s look getting it on the skin too is a good thing)
Comb the brows and you are done.
You can, if you have unruly brows, apply a tiny bit of hair wax to an eyebrow brush and gently comb it through to keep things neat.

Tinting:

Just like hair and eyelashes your eyebrows can be tinted with semi permanent dye. This is specially formulated for the purpose and should never be substituted for or mixed with any other type of hair dye. It is best done by a professional really, though there are home use kits available. Follow the instructions provided carefully. Do not be tempted to either skip the skin test or leave the tint on for longer than suggested, either can be seriously bad. Done well though tinted eyebrows mean one less thing you have to do when putting on your makeup and a more natural look than makeup can even give.

Eyebrows are wonderfully expressive, just watch a Garbo movie if you don't believe me, so get yours in shape and use to their fullest impact!
Have fun brow shaping kittens.

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