1950s fashion reflected the renewed feeling of optimism and freedom in Europe and America. It was fun, vibrant, flirtatious and a full departure from the worthy practicality of 1940s fashion. It was the last great age of the pinup girls, the teenager was invented and rock'n'roll was born.
As we know Christian Dior re-launched the so called "New Look" in 1947, where it caused a storm because of its 'wasteful' use of fabric, but ultimately it was what the people wanted so the discouragement of the powers that be was generally ignored by all...including the royal princesses!. The look was actually called the Corolle line, it was Life magazine that dubbed it the New Look, and that is what it remained. (To see any of the pinups fashion images on this page larger, or to learn more about them, just click on the images and the Vintage Fashion Art Gallery will open in a new window) *1950s makeup beauty guide*
CHRISTIAN DIOR... ITS ALL IN THE TIMING
It was the most perfect timing for Dior to make fashion history. The new look was everything that was forbidden under wartime rationing. Women yearned for flirtatious, feminine, 'fashion for fashions sake' clothing that did not look like a civilian version of military uniforms.
The new look was all of that and more, even I can remember the first time I saw an image of it, it took my breath away, so I can only imagine what it must have been like at the time. The look was typified by a tightly fitted jacket with a cinched in waist and a circular calf length skirt, held up and out with stiff petticoats. The fitted jackets were also worn with the slightly lesser well known pencil skirt style, and a scarf tied around the neck to cover the decolette (this was needed because women tended to wear just their lingerie under the jacket). Either way, the look focused its attention on the tiny waist. The most famous patterns needed yards of fabric, about 10 yards for early styles building up to a massive 80 yards! This kind of open rebellion to the rationing wartime mindset was the tonic 1950s fashion needed, and it dominated the fashion world for 10 years.
The full skirts and cinched waists were not really a practical look, which lends strength to the argument that it was part of an attempt to get women back into the home and out of the workplace now the men had returned. But this is no reason to hate the style now....killjoys.
CHANNEL- BACK TO THE FUTURE. The full skirted Dior New Look was just one of the iconic silhouettes of 1950s fashion. The other ofcourse being the slim fitting tubular dress. The similarity between them being the emphasis on the narrow waist.
It was in 1954 that Chanel reopened her fashion house and started making the boxy suit jacket and slim skirts made from textured wool fabrics we now recognize immediately as the Chanel suit. High quality tailoring and focus on detailing were key. Lined with colourful silks and weighted with gilt chains. It was a departure from the shape of the first half of the 1950s, being more straight up and down than nipped in at the waist. And was a style which was easy to copy.
Chanel was a smart, forward thinking enough business to realize that Haute Couture was not going to last much longer. The climate of the new culture going into the latter part of the 1950s would favour ready to wear fashions. So to survive Chanel realized that the future was in branding and selling to the masses. She was already down on the boned bodices of the Dior style, suggesting it was old fashioned, and the public quickly agreed with her.... the foundation was laid for a change, a break in the mold that would never be undone.
Myself, I have no time for the Chanel look, its just not glamorous enough for my taste. And its not exactly sexy is it girls?. But it is too important to the way we enjoy fashion today not to have a mention.
THE MASS MARKET Thanks to Chanel Haute Couture design models were being licensed to department stores. Stores like Wallis in the UK and Macy's in the US paid large sums of money to the fashion houses for a Toile (a basic fabric copy of the garment) With every instruction they needed to make the garment for their own collections. Making thousands of these copies enabled the stores to sell what would have been an expensive designer outfit for much much less. Today this is just the way we take it for granted the department and chain stores work, bringing out cheap imitations of the catwalk fashions within weeks that are sometimes so similar it seems almost criminal.
THE TEENAGER COMETH. What is it about teenagers that makes everyone who isn't one, hate them?. I know it cant be jealousy because I still remember how much it sucked. Such an integral part of our culture now but we owe (or can blame, depending on your point of view) the 1950s fashion industry for their existence as we know it. Before the 1950s there was no such thing as teenagers. Young people just went right from children to dressing the same way as their parents.
During the 50s there was a whole range of factors influencing the youth of the day ranging from TV , film, magazines and most of all music, that were tempting the youth of the day with their wicked influences, turning them and their newly disposable incomes into a powerful market force. Its true that the devil has the best jukebox! ;)
The teenage look shared similar silhouettes to the rest of 1950s fashion just, well, younger, brighter, more brash and attention seeking. Think the cast of grease. It is this rock'n'roll image that is probably the one we most associate with the 50s now and is quite easy to find.
GETTING THE 1950s FASHION LOOK The easiest look to get these days, because it is the most popular, is the Rock'n'Roll/rockabilly look. You can buy reproductions in modern sizing from many vintage inspired fashion specialists like;
Vivien of Holloway,Pinup Girl Clothing.com
You will find full skirted swing dresses, brightly coloured underskirts in chiffon,tulle and net- which can be doubled up to get just the right fullness, as was quite common in the 50s. As well as breath-holdingly tight wiggle dresses, pencil skirts, pedal pushers (tight fitting mid calf length pants) off the shoulder or halterneck tops and more. Team these with a fabulous pinup hairstyle and shocking red lipstick.
Ofcourse you don't have to go with that look if you don't want to... How about the more subtle side of 1950s fashion, the 'chic continental' look of the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Leslie Caron. For that, wear tight fitting cropped pants or leggings with simple close fitting sweaters or striped T-shirt and a neck scarf
But no matter what retro/vintage inspired style you go for, to get the look right you are going to need the right underwear. For me personaly the only lingerie boutique is
What Katie Did
in London. They have by far the best range I know and their spiral stitched bullet bras and fully fashioned seamed stockings are the stuff of legend. My bias towards Katie though is not to be taken to mean that the legends that are Secrets in lace. don't have an amazing range of vintage styled lingerie and fully fashioned stockings. They do (though if you are a small size like under a 34B you would be better trying WKD) SIN also have a cute selection of crinoline 1950s style petticoats at good prices.
Unseamed stockings did actually come in in the 1950s but the fit of them was so bad that they really didn't take on until the 60s, so you are still looking at needing seams...thankfully. The right choice is the french heel stocking if you want to be really correct (the cuban was more the 1940s) The 50s had the best beach fashions to choose from, with adoreable one piece bathing suits and daring two piece bikinis with tie sides!. Though what Katie did do have a very authentic range available, I just love the low leg styles at pinup girl clothing.com. Or you try making your own, not as hard as it seems, I found a great pattern at Burda style that is free to download! - Alison swimsuit pattern at Burda style.com. Now all you need is some kitty cat-eye sunglasses and a class in lindy hop you are all set.
I think that today the 1950s fashion style is the most specific and obvious of the three main 'vintage fashion' decades. You are sure to get noticed dressed this way, more perhaps than 30s or 40s style which can be better combined with modern clothing.
This promotional video of early 1950s Dior fashions is so frivolous and I love it sooo much. If any of you ever get the chance to own anything this beautiful jump at it kittens...and send me a picture!!
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Get the 1950s fashion look
The 1950s pinup fashion look is probably the most distinctive of the three and the one that you will need to go to specialist vintage reproduction boutiques for the most. There are afew staples you can pick up easily though - tight V neck sweaters, wide belts, sheath dresses, neck scarfs, cropped trousers or leggings, 'peasant' tops and cardigan twinsets.
Brown 1950s Wig W/detachable Headband For Adult The wholesome good girl hairstyle (a pony tail with a ribbon tied round it works well too, or a short cut like Marilyn Monroe or Elizabeth Taylor)
CHRISTIAN DIOR... ITS ALL IN THE TIMING 
